The cheeses that I love: Mark Kacary

Mark Kacary, founder of Norfolk Deli, which has one of the best stocked counters in East Anglia, is vocal about his love of cheese, and the power of the cheesemonger to bring the stories of each product alive.

Although it was a mean feat, he’s brought together just 10 cheeses he thinks all good specialist retailers should make a place for in their counters.

1. Baron Bigod, Fen Farm Dairy

When I first tasted Baron (about 8 years ago or so) a love affair started which has lasted to this day. It is little wonder that it has become as popular, as it has and as widespread in appeal and availability, but my wife and I do like to say that we knew them before they became famous. As for serving tips…adding honey to this always goes well. It certainly is at the core of one of our favourite sandwiches we created - Brie my Hunny -  which is based on Baron, Norfolk honey, walnuts, avocado and lettuce leaves. It’s a combination that really works, give it a try.

2. Wells Alpine, Mrs Temple

From the Mrs Temple’s stable of Norfolk cheeses, Wells Alpine has a nuttiness and a texture that reminds one of those typical Alpine resorts. There are various classic combinations one could use with a Wells Alpine. I particularly like it with a Candi’s Spiced Carrot Chutney (keeping it Norfolk).

3. Delice De Bourgogne, Fromagerie Lincet

This is just one of those cheeses I find hard to resist. There are numerous British varieties like this to try. Finn from Neal’s Yard Creamery for example. In some ways this is the cheese equivalent to a marshmallow in texture and the way in which it just melts in your mouth. It is of course far better than a marshmallow, and in my view the perfect cheese to enjoy with a cold glass of Champagne. The sparkling sharpness of a lovely dry glass of fizz cuts through the triple cream richness of the cheese. This is heaven on a plate.

4. Montagnolo, Käserei Champignon

Often described by me as blue cheese for beginners, this is the perfect introduction to the varying complexities of blue cheese. It is soft, smooth and creamy. It feels like a Brie but has just enough blueness to it to combine a mushroomy flavour with a strength that brings a welcome complexity and flavour. Add apples, celery or carrots to the plate in a raw food explosion. This cheese perfectly complements these items without any flavours overpowering each other.

5. Grand Noir, Kaserei Champignon

From the same region as Montagnolo, and since we introduced this to our cheese counter this has regularly become one of our most popular blue cheeses. Imagine the creaminess of a Montagnolo and then notch up the flavour to 11! This is wrapped in wax, which has allowed the cheese to mature with deeper flavours. And yet it’s still not overpowering to anybody who is not that keen on blue cheeses. This can stand up to strong flavour combinations. I would have this cheese with a flavoursome IPA from Duration Brewery which is only a few miles way, and a preserve from The Garden Pantry like their Celeriac, Apple & Beer Chutney.

6. St Andrew’s, St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company

This is a proper, sharp-tasting Cheddar-style cheese. It doesn’t hold back on brute strength. A favourite of customers who want “a strong cheese that is like Cheddar”. Truth be told there are just so many wonderful Cheddars, and each and everyone of them has their own complexities and favour profiles. It would be very easy to create a cheeseboard comprising of nothing other than Cheddar, and yet for the cheeses to all offer something different. I like to pair this with something as equally bold, like sweet Pepperdews which have a sweetness and just the right amount of heat to bounce off its full-bodied nature.

7. Alp Blossom, Albert Kraus

Alpine cheeses are always a great addition to a cheese board as they offer their own unique textures and flavours, and nothing plays with flavours quite as much as an Alp Blossom. Covered in wild flowers, the cheese ranges in taste from sweet and floral to almost peppery. It feels wrong to do anything other than to allow it to express itself and be the star of the show. Serve with a plain sourdough cracker and glass of cold Chardonnay, or Bacchus from one of our favourite local vineyards such as Burn Valley, Cobble Hill or Flint.

8. Stinking Bishop, Charles Martell

I believe it is wrong to label this as a ‘marmite cheese’ unless you want to categorise those who can’t get past the smell (those who don’t like marmite) and those who see past the smell and realise that, just like a timid dog who simply likes to bark a lot, this cheese will love you for the love you show it in return. I adore a good full-bodied red wine with a Stinking Bishop, and try it with pickled pears, which work really well considering the cheese gets its reputation from being washed in perry.

9. Smoked Dapple, Ferndale Dairy

This is not a Cheddar, but we’ll often offer this as a local alternative. It is a hard, unpasteurised cow’s milk cheese, has plenty of flavour, and deserves its place on any cheeseboard. Alongside Dapple you’ll find a Smoked Dapple, which has been lightly smoked to give it enough flavour to offer something extra without overpowering the senses with smokiness. I love this combined either with a nice smoky chilli and tomato chutney from either Candi’s Chutney or The Garden Pantry.

10. St Jude, St Jude Cheese

Having started at Fen Farm with Baron Bigod, I am ending on the same farm, but this time with a cheese created and developed by Julie Cheney. St Jude is a raw milk, soft,  creamy cheese not too dissimilar to a St Marcellin. It comes in a small container, and is just the perfect size to rest on your lap, spooning it out straight onto your favourite crackers – or straight into your mouth!