How to sell ‘smelly cheese’

Lush, velveteen, umami, and oozing. These are some of the most sought-after characteristics in cheese...surely? The only trouble is, many of these qualities relate to washed-rind cheese – and it really doesn’t float everyone’s boat. Particularly if they’ve tried something a bit pokey in the past.

So, how to win over the stinky cheese avoider?

For starters, have a decent selection. They should absolutely be key players in your counter, says Mark Kacary of The Norfolk Deli. “A rind washed cheese is a thing of beauty,” he romanticises. “It has been lovingly washed and cared for over what is often a significant period. It is soft, gooey and unguinous.” 

To not stock them, favouring the same old same old as the supermarkets is “like missing out a member of the Beatles. You’re missing out personally, but also so are your customers.”

Morgan McGlynn Carr of Cheeses of Muswell Hill fervently agrees and says her cabinet is awash with so-called smelly cheeses. They are some of her bestsellers, offering unique aromas and flavours that add “depth and complexity to each bite”.

“They also showcase the rich cultural heritage and traditions of cheesemaking, appealing to adventurous customers seeking bold taste experiences.”

Her personal favourites include Epoisses, Munster and Taleggio. “Epoisses, with its velvety texture and pronounced aroma, exemplifies the epitome of washed-rind cheeses,” Morgan says, dreamily. “Tallegio’s buttery richness and tangy profile make it a versatile and crowd-winning choice. And Munster, steeped in history, offers a robust flavour with hints of earthiness.”

Not wanting to overlook homegrown varieties, Morgan says she really enjoys Yarlington – a British cheese that’s starting to become a real favourite in the shop. “It’s washed in Tom Oliver’s cider, which is made using Yarlington Mill apples and boasts a creamy texture and subtly pungent aroma.”

Taleggio is a firm choice for Mark too, who adds that Mrs Temples’ Gurney Gold, made in his home county of Norfolk, is the “perfect alternative”. Stinking Bishop and Epoisses are also ‘up there’ for Mark who says both have a reputation for being very smelly, but their ‘bark is worse than their bite’. “Let’s not forget cheeses such as an Ogleshield or Raclette. They’re also rind washed but not to the same extent. A rind washed cheese is probably the best cheese to use wherever and whenever you want gooey, melted cheese, such as in a toastie.”

How to store smelly cheeses

There is a misconception that stinky cheeses such as washed-rind varieties, will taint the flavour of other products in the counter. Mark says he thinks it’s all a “work of fiction”. 

Unless of course “you were to leave a rind washed cheese unwrapped in standard room conditions on top of another cheese. At this point you are likely to have a problem. But we keep ours in the same counter as other cheeses, wrapped in clingfilm, in what is quite a cold environment – approximately 1-2C. Smelly cheeses become smelly when exposed to warmth. Keep them cold and you will control the smell.”

Morgan says washed-rind cheese thrives in a cold, humid environment, stored on a clean surface to preserve their individual textures and flavours. “Regular monitoring and rotation help prevent excessive drying or moisture build up, ensuring freshness and optimal taste.”

Convincing customers to try washed-rind cheese

While luring customers from Cheddar to, perhaps, a gently bloomy, mushroomy Brie is often a winner, getting them to discover pastures new from the stinkier side of the counter can prove altogether more difficult.

The most obvious barrier is smell. “Therefore, go with a cheese that is not too smelly,” to get the ball rolling, says Mark, who highlights Reblochon, Raclette and Ogleshield as the most obvious choices. “None of these smell bad, but they have a unique flavour reminiscent to cheese such as Stinking Bishop. Once you have tried those, look towards cheese like a St Helena, or a Norfolk Tawny, which is washed in a Norfolk brown ale. Or, some of my favourites at the moment are Rebel Nun or Renegade Monk – with Rebel Nun having a touch of blue in included in the mix.”

Include washed-rind cheeses in your sampling, insists Morgan. With a little friendly coaxing, you may find more people than you’d expect are up for trying them. She offers two or three different sampling cheeses each weekend so customers can discover something new. Morgan has some tricks up her sleeve to make the offer even more enticing, pairing washed-rinds with crusty bread, fruits or nuts to balance their bold flavours. “We would then highlight the unique characteristics of each cheese, and share personal recommendations based on their favourites.”

Suggesting pairings, and ways to make these cheeses more approachable for the novice is a good idea, says Mark who is “a sucker for a wholewheat cracker. It’s the sweetness against the gooeyness of the cheese, and the way the crumb helps to cut through the cheese.” Otherwise, he suggests advising customers to try them with a crisp apple, potatoes, or in a toastie.

“Epoisses pairs well with honey or fig jam,” adds Morgan, saying both of these will accentuate its richness. “Taleggio complements fruity red wines like Barbera. And Munster harmonises with bold flavours such as charcuterie and pickles, creating a dynamic mix of savoury and tangy elements.”