Why is cottage cheese taking the world by storm?

25 July 2024, 07:00 AM
  • The dieting favourite has made a huge comeback. Speciality Food finds out what’s behind this surprising success story
Why is cottage cheese taking the world by storm?

Social media never fails to astonish in its ability to revive and reignite interest in products that, left to their own devices, might otherwise have faded into the mists of time. The biggest phenomenon across multiple platforms right now, and one specialist retailers would do well to take note of, is cottage cheese.

Previously cast aside as a tasteless ‘cheese imposter’, relegated to discussions in the back of village and town hall slimming clubs (where for a long time it’s been considered a food to be endured, not enjoyed), cottage cheese has a new audience – with devotees waxing lyrical about its versatility, and low fat, high protein credentials.

Buoyed by its newly emerged ‘superfood’ status, cottage cheese has enjoyed its lengthy moment in the spotlight, with recipes for everything from high-protein cottage cheese pizza, to cottage cheese cheesecake, and a viral cottage cheese wrap, racking up millions upon millions of views across TikTok and Instagram.

Insight suggests this is not a fleeting phenomenon. As Gen-Z (and increasingly Gen Alpha) clean up their diets, seeking out natural, protein-rich, healthier products, cottage cheese is increasingly fitting the bill. According to Cognitive Market Research, the market is expected to expand globally at a rate of 6% between 2024 and 2031, with North America (40%) and Europe (30%) being responsible for the majority of sales and interest.

What is cottage cheese?

Cottage cheese is, in many ways, one of the earliest expressions of cheese, thought to date back more than 5,000 years.

It’s an unaged cheese, made by heating skimmed milk with lactic acid and rennet, draining the curds and whey, reheating, and finishing with a ‘dressing’ of cream, or sometimes sour cream or creme fraiche.

In modern history, it can be traced to American homesteads, where the cheese was a useful byproduct for farmers. It was popularised in WWI and WW2 by US troupes, as a protein-packed alternative to rationed meat, and was heavily promoted. Sales peaked in the 70s, when cottage cheese was recognised as an easy-to-use diet food, but its popularity declined with the advent of flavoured, blended yoghurts in the 80s, which tantalised with new fandangoed flavours such as chocolate, toffee and berry.

Jimmy Dickinson of Longley Farm says his father, Joseph, is widely considered the godfather of cottage cheese in the UK. “I think we were the first people in this country to make it,” he explains.

“In 1940 my father joined the Navy. He was in the Navy right through to 1946, and in 1944 was part of the British Pacific Fleet with the Americans. American ships were catered very well compared to ours. They had all sorts of things, like orange juice, frozen food, ice cream dispensers…and cottage cheese. He’d never seen anything like it before!”

Joseph made a beeline for the States in the mid-60s, discovering a world of incredible yoghurts and cottage cheeses, and brought what he learnt back to Britain with him. “In those days,” Jimmy continues, “he had this simple idea that whatever happened in America, would happen here seven years later.”

Cottage cheese was made on a very small scale at Longley Farm, but its growth was easy to trace, even back then, with the first period of British popularity, Jimmy thinks, coinciding with the advent of the package holiday.

“People were booking trips to the Costa Brava. They wanted to look good in their swimsuits. It was all about women losing weight. And the sales shot up.”

Why is cottage cheese popular right now?

Robert Graham, managing director of Graham’s Family Dairy, says sales of the brand’s cottage cheese have already grown by 40% on last year. “Like many modern-day trends driven by Gen-Z, we are seeing retro return to the spotlight, and it’s no different for cottage cheese,” he explains, adding that the business is at capacity production-wise for cottage cheese.

“We started producing cottage cheese in 2016 after we purchased our Glenfield production site in Cowdenbeath,” he continues, saying they had noticed the early comeback growth. “It wasn’t until years later that we started seeing real growth in our cottage cheese sales numbers, with summer 2023 marking the start of increased demand, which has continued to accelerate to this day. Now, we are producing millions of kilos of cottage cheese a year, and are undergoing initial investment discussions to increase production capacity.”

Key drivers, Robert says, are the cheese’s versatility and nutritional value. “People have been able to use it creatively in recipes, while knowing that it is naturally high in protein. As people continue to avoid ultra processed foods, cottage cheese provides an option for a naturally made product with a clean ingredients deck.”

Jimmy says Longley Farm started noticing a sales incline for cottage cheese five years ago. “We were a big fish in an ever-declining pond, and then we started to see bodybuilders talking more about protein, and contacting us to ask if they could have cottage cheese without the dressing. They wanted pure milk protein. We could see there was something coming up for this product and we were selling into gyms and swimming baths.”

New cottage cheese fans are very different to buyers in the 70s, Jimmy adds. “Before it was only women, and those going to slimming clubs. That shifted to primarily being men, and muscles, and losing fat. And the latest thing is it’s been picked up by lifestyle influencers. You’ve got a generation of people who have suddenly ‘rediscovered the wheel’. People are using it in ice cream, and pancakes. They like the fact it’s a natural thing. It’s free of additives, stabilisers and preservatives.”

It reminds Jimmy, he adds, of the meteoric rise in popularity of cottage cheese in the 70s. “Sales are very, very strong.”

What does cottage cheese taste like?

Cottage cheese is mild, milky and slightly salty with a gentle tang, making it a useful component for all kinds of recipes.

Chef Dean Harper likes to use it in both sweet and savoury dishes. “It can be incorporated into pasta sauces, dips, salads, baked goods – even desserts like cheesecakes. I find that cottage cheese adds a distinctly creamy texture to recipes that’s hard to replicate,” he says.

“Cottage cheese is prized among chefs due to its tangy flavour profile and high protein content,” he continues. “It maximises the nutritional value and mouthfeel of almost any dish, without overpowering the other flavours.”

Is cottage cheese low in fat?

Dr Deborah Lee says cottage cheese is low in fat, depending on the fat content of the milk it was made from – usually 1%. “It is one of the lowest-fat cheeses you can buy,” she explains. “Even regular – full fat – cottage cheese is only 4g per 100g. This compares to Cheddar, for example, which is 22g of fat per 100g.” This profile, Dr Lee says, is useful for anyone seeking to reduce their overall fat intake, and cholesterol levels.

Is cottage cheese healthy?

On the scale of cheese (if there were such a thing) Dr Lee says cottage cheese would come out on top as one of the healthiest, containing on average 11g of protein per 100g. “This is about the same amount of protein found in eggs. We should all be eating more protein. Protein contains amino acids, which are the building blocks of all cells and organs of the body.” And if you’re trying to lose weight “eating enough protein is vital”.

Dr Lee points too, to cottage cheese’s calcium credentials, low sugar content, probiotics, and high levels of selenium (around 20mcg per cup). “It is one of the best food sources of selenium,” she says. “Low dietary intake of selenium is increasingly common in the UK, probably due to the poorer quality of the soil. Low selenium intake has been found in association with poor-quality sleep. Eating food like cottage cheese can help reverse this trend.”

She likes to incorporate it into her diet by using it as a topping for baked potatoes or toast, and mixing it into fish pates and salad dressings.

Why should specialist retailers consider stocking cottage cheese?

“Where we are now, this really is a product that’s popular across the board,” says Jimmy. “The growth is definitely amongst a younger age group, who are using farm shops and delis. It has automatic appeal to them.” Jimmy also indicates that sales in independents for cottage cheese are holding their own, remaining very strong. “Cottage cheese is not just a supermarket phenomenon.”

“Specialist retailers have a fantastic opportunity to tap into the growing market if they haven’t done so already,” adds Robert. “The demand for versatile, high-protein, and clean-label products is skyrocketing, and our expansion plans highlight the excitement surrounding cottage cheese.”

 

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