How to stock a cheese counter

Whether you’re just setting up a cheese counter in your deli, opening your own cheese shop or simply perfecting your selection, Daniel Williams of Godfrey C Williams & Son says the best way to start stocking cheese is by thinking about the focus of your cheese counter. “What do you want to be known for? Do you want your range to just feature locally made cheeses? A wider range of British artisan cheeses? Or a range based on British and Continental bestsellers?” Once you’ve hammered this out, you’ll have a better idea of which cheeses you want to source.

While it may sound simple, Daniel reminds us to be wary of getting carried away with ordering more of a cheese than you’ll be able to sell. “Source cheese based on the requirements of your business,” he says. “There’s no point in sourcing a whole wheel of Comté if you’re unlikely to sell it all before the expiry date, or if it takes up a disproportionate amount of your budget. Instead, source manageable and cost-effective cheese sizes that suit the size of your business and customer base.”

Jen Grimstone-Jones of Cheese Etc, The Pangbourne Cheese Shop in Reading, agrees. “If you meet a cheesemaker at an event and fall in love with their cheese, always ask how they would get it to you. A wholesaler will let you buy a few kilograms or half a dozen small cheeses to introduce to customers to see how they go, whereas a cheesemaker might want to ship 50 units to you. Will you be able to sell that much of one cheese? And where are you going to keep the stock?”

Starting small is a great way to test the waters with a cheese your customers are unfamiliar with. “In general, when we source a new cheese, we will trial in one of our outlets,” explains Kevin Sheridan of Sheridans Cheesemongers. “Oftentimes samples received do not reflect accurately the cheeses that will arrive. In addition, farmhouse cheeses by their nature change through the seasons; by trialling a cheese in one outlet we can assess these changes and know the impact before we decide to allow the cheeses a full listing. Of course, no matter what we think of a cheese, the only real test is our customers. We have often sourced what we believed to be a great cheese and then our customers have disagreed!”

Selecting the best

When choosing a quality artisan cheese, Kevin says the basic criteria are always the same. “We look for cheeses that are first and foremost of great quality or show potential to become great. This is a simple process and involves tasting the cheese. This may sound obvious, but it is surprising how many retailers don’t use this as the first step in selection,” he says. 

Jen agrees that flavour is paramount. “The most important thing for us and our customers is quality and flavour. Whatever the age of cheese, it has to have a depth of flavour. Even mild, creamy Brie-style cheeses need to have something about them that gets your tastebuds wanting more,” she says. And taste-testing is always important, whether it’s a new cheese or one you’ve ordered dozens of times. “The majority of our cheeses are from small, artisan producers, but even so quality is not always guaranteed so we try every cheese every time we get a new batch.”

Consider the full cost

In addition to taste, price plays a part in cheesemongers’ decisions about whether to stock a particular cheese. “We have to be sure that our customers will receive value for the cheese they purchase. Value does not mean cheap, but that the price reflects the quality of the product and that it is comparable to similar cheeses,” Kevin says.

“We have to cater for all tastes and budgets,” Jen adds, “so we try to make sure that we have a good range of mild to strong cheeses, soft to hard. For me, the price is then the least vital but still an important consideration.” Logistics also factor into the value a cheese presents to a cheesemonger, especially when EU importing rules are still a moveable feast post-Brexit.

“There may be a wonderful cheese at a good price somewhere in Europe, but unless we can get it to our warehouse in a cost-effective manner then it is of no use,” Kevin says. “As many cheeses have a short shelf life or change considerably as they continue to mature over time, frequency of purchase is really important.”

Building relationships

Working with wholesalers can be a great way for cheesemongers to develop their expertise and try new, trusted makers, but it’s also important for retailers to work directly with cheesemakers in order to build relationships and trust with the people behind the cheeses they know and love. “A direct relationship with the producer may create opportunities that can’t be found elsewhere,” Daniel explains. This could take the form of farm or dairy tours, cheeses that aren’t available through wholesalers and special offers. 

“Cheesemakers deserve to be rewarded for making their amazing delights, and I’d rather buy direct, where possible, so I know that the money is going straight back to the producer,” Jen adds. She is often travelling the country meeting new cheesemakers and revisiting existing suppliers and believes any relationship must be built on respect and communication. “The cheese world is a small, but wonderfully friendly industry to work in. I’d always prefer to meet people face-to-face, at least initially, to begin a working relationship. It’s then often easier to talk on the phone or email,” she adds.

“The relationship between ourselves and our cheese producers is central to our whole operation and ethos,” Kevin agrees. “We look to build long-term sustainable relationships with our producers; this partnership ensures that we understand the farms and the artisans who produce our cheeses, and that our producers understand ourselves and our customers.”

While Kevin even says he tries to form a direct relationship with cheesemakers even when he is working through a partner wholesaler, for instance with European producers, Daniel stresses that these bonds are particularly useful when formed with local cheesemakers. Indeed, stronger relationships will only enhance cheesemongers’ knowledge about the cheeses in their area, and further afield, so they can better answer customers’ questions and sell their cheeses.