Exploring Northern cheese with Paul Heasman, Rowcliffe

Ask people in the street about the geographical origins of English cheese and their brains generally wander towards the icons from the South and Midlands; Cheddar, Stilton etc. What too often gets overlooked are many other iconic foundations of British cheese, grouped in with what we in the trade know affectionately as The Territorials.

The North of England is forged from great, albeit often isolated, land ideal for cheesemaking. Sheep were and still are prevalent, but the 1800s saw a big influx of cows in lower lush pastures, increasing the diversity of products and production volume.

Despite this, Territorial cheese did not see the global expansion of the likes of Cheddar, remaining localised to their region, retaining their uniqueness, and thankfully limiting competition.

Consequently, many of the flavour profiles we see in these cheeses are not replicated entirely elsewhere; every style has its own signature with fresh acidity being the common denominator. Each has its own personality, just like its makers.

As I am always keen to point out, good cheese is about good people, and the spirit and true grit of individuals from Yorkshire, Cheshire and Lancashire have kept these regions alive; from Judy Bell at Shepherds Purse, the effervescent Mandy Reed at Swaledale, Graham Kirkham in Lancashire, John Bourne in Cheshire, David Hartley at Wensleydale Dairy Product to give just a few examples of those who have worked tirelessly to keep traditions alive, and innovate. And whilst many of them are sadly no longer with us, their passion and fortitude carry on through future generations of cheesemakers.

However, amongst all the positive news this is still a category that is in somewhat of a crisis and very much in need of more support from all of us in the industry, but by default, I also see that there is a huge opportunity for incremental sales to be tapped. Territorials have tended to be a Plus One purchase rather than a main feature of a cheeseboard or recipe; there is no reason for this to be the case.

The quality and provenance speak for themselves, but only once you’ve tasted or heard the stories; this is where the independent sector in particular can play its part in championing products to consumers and benefiting from the efforts.

We must ensure these beautiful cheeses from beautiful counties remain a cornerstone of our British cheese heritage.