Exploring cheese from the West Country with Justin Tunstall

Growing up on the Devon/Dorset border in the 1960s, cheese was Cheddar. We had no idea where it came from, save for the occasional slab of Cracker Barrel, a Canadian Cheddar – a relic of Empire, perhaps? Variety was thin on the ground.

Dorset Blue Vinny was mythical. Blue cheese meant Stilton at Christmas, Danish Blue the rest of the time. Occasionally we had plastic-wrapped Double Gloucester, sweet and oily. Dairylea triangles belonged in packed lunches and didn’t seem to have anything to do with cheese. Visitors to France brought back wider variety, but that was infrequent.

When I returned to open a cheesemonger in the West Country in 2009, much had changed. Sadly, Traditional West Country Cheddar was in decline, but cheesemakers in the region were producing a comparative cornucopia of varieties, of all styles from fresh curds to washed rind, blue (Vinny had been resurrected), soft and hard cheeses.

Cow, goat, ewe, and buffalo milks had all been used to experiment and create cheeses new to the British palate. Consistent quality was achieved, and shoppers were interested in where and how these cheeses were made. My decision to become a West Country cheese specialist was an easy one; a manageable roster of cheeses to get to know and a growing range to satisfy requests for almost any style.

Some very strong brands had established themselves, amongst them Yarg, Old Winchester, Ticklemore and Rachel, alongside renowned makers such as Denhay, Quickes, Montgomery and Sharpham.

Since then, some makers have gone out of the market (e.g. Denhay, Wooton Organic) and some have changed hands – (e.g. Sharpham, Ford Farm). All successful entrants to the market seem to follow a standard progression – experimentation, a drive for consistency and volume, (sometimes by broadening the range) and then distribution and marketing. While the largest Cheddar makers seem to live or die on their relationships with supermarkets, there’s a thriving independent scene, and hopefully a living to be made there.

Currently, I keep a close eye on developments from White Lake, in Somerset, whose run of three Supreme Champion awards at the British Cheese Awards involved three different cheeses – a strong track record in innovation from Roger Longman.

I’ve been impressed, too, by the work done by Greg Parsons since taking over Devon’s Sharpham. They have long had a fine range of steady sellers, but Greg has made impressive additions to the offering, with his customary marketing nous.

Third, a newer entrant to the scene is Peter Morgan of Book and Bucket in Dorset, where cheeses are named after figures in literature. He started making with ewe’s milk but was offered a surplus of cow’s milk during lockdown and created a raft of new cheeses while many makers were on furlough. Blyton was a star of our Christmas spread, and hits far outnumber any cheeses that I find less appealing.

Attracting much interest from hospitality and wholesale clients at the World Cheese Awards, The Book & Bucket Cheese Company could make a large impact. But these are but a few of the characters and cheeses that form the West Country cheese world.