A guide to selling blue cheese

18 November 2024, 07:00 AM
  • Bold and dynamic, blue cheese is a deli counter essential. Speciality Food finds out from cheesemakers and cheese experts why its appeal endures, and how it’s being marketed to a whole new generation of cheese lovers
A guide to selling blue cheese

To compose a cheeseboard or grazing table without blue cheese would be akin to removing the melody from the lyrics of a song.

Rippled with undulating threads of slate, cerulean or cobolt blue veining, and alternating in variety from meltingly dense, crumbly and saline sweet, to fudgy, intense and piquant, it is the backbone of any good cheese counter.

Although it’s known to be one of the oldest cheeses in the world (discovered as a ‘happy accident’ as Penicillium bacteria wove its way through resting curds kept in damp, humid conditions) blues are far from being relics of the past.

Today artisan makers, both in Britain and across the world, are championing their makes to ever younger audiences, devising campaigns and formats that appeal to multiple generations, ensuring the love of blue cheese continues to flourish.

Why is blue cheese so important?

When consumers are compiling their cheeseboards, they’re looking for variety – texturally, visually and from a flavour perspective too, says leading cheese and dairy expert Patrick McGuigan, advisor to the EU’s ‘More Than Only Food and Drink’ campaign. And blue cheese strikes the right chord across each of these profiles.

“It’s no secret that blue cheese can be a bit divisive, which is why it is important for retailers to educate customers to show them the variety available, and how the flavours differ dependent on how and where they are produced,” Patrick adds.

“For example, Roquefort PDO from the South of France is made of sheep’s milk. It is spicy and salty, with a fondant-like texture, whilst Gorgonzola Dolce PDO from Italy is soft, creamy and mild, with a fruity, boozy flavour.”

The point of a cheeseboard, Patrick adds, is to bring something for everyone to the table, “and this is very much the case with blue cheese”. 

It’s Stilton’s time to shine

Storytelling and romance are ingrained within British artisan dairies, and it’s these stories, told at the counter, which can captivate and entice shoppers to try…and buy.

One of the most compelling stories is of origin, especially if there is a PDO attached to a product, as in the case of Stilton. Being able to explain the lineage and personality of a cheese is an evocative thing says Priya Taylor of Clawson Farms. “Blue Stilton holds a great amount of history for Britain. Truly iconic, it can only be made to strict regulations in the counties of Leicestershire, Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire. This protection ensures the cheese remains authentic to Britain, a little like Champagne is to France.”

Clawson Farm’s PDO Blue Stilton is cared for at every stage, adds Priya. That begins with sourcing the highest welfare milk from its 30 member farms daily, continuing along the making journey and into the maturing rooms, where the cheeses are hand turned, graded and selected.

Stilton’s lesser known, but award-winning cousin, Blue Shropshire, is another cheese Priya feels artisan retailers should have in their wheelhouse. “It’s mild, mellow, creamy and versatile,” she says. “But so many blue cheese lovers have never tried it. We think it’s a great option to stock as an entry point into blue cheese. In the counter its bright golden, orange hue sparks curiosity and attention. It’s an award winner too. Our Clawson Farms Blue Shropshire won Supreme Champion at the International Cheese and Dairy Awards in 2022 for its exceptional taste.”

Choosing continental blue cheeses

There will always be a place for Stilton in the hearts of British cheese lovers, Patrick agrees, but while they champion UK-made dairy, cheesemongers should also recognise the popularity of European cheeses, and continue to offer choice.

Roquefort PDO and Gorgonzola PDO lead the pack as far as continental favourites are concerned, but “there are lots of options from across the EU that are still very much under the radar, and winter is the perfect time to expand your offering and stock some different varieties,” Patrick suggests.

Spain has a lot of quite spicy, powerful blues that are produced in the Northwest of the country. These include Cabrales PDO which is made from raw cow’s, ewe’s and goats’ milk, from herds and flocks grazing in the mountainous regions. It has an intense flavour and a dense texture. 

“Queso de Valdeón PGI is wrapped in sycamore or maple leaves, has a strong, robust taste, and looks fantastic on a cheeseboard. Another great Spanish blue is Picón Bejes-Tresviso PDO which is made in the in the mountains of Cantabria at 900 metres above sea level. 

“Closer to home, Cashel Blue from Ireland is a European style cheese which is very approachable.”

The best blue cheeses to try first

Staunch supporters of blue cheese won’t require much nudging to try new, or perhaps more potent varieties, but pulling the less adventurous of cheese lovers over the line can take a bit of work.

One school of thought for priming their tastebuds is discovering their ‘cheese tolerance level’. The bolder the better. If a customer enjoys a nibble of powerful vintage Cheddar, or a sharp sliver of aged Parmesan while sampling, next offer them a bite of something mild, creamy and buttery from the blue wheelhouse, with a familiar, sweet accompaniment such as a drizzle of honey, or a smidge of date chutney. Side stepping from a savoury, umami ‘appetiser’ into the blue realm is less of a shock to the senses than leaping from a young creamy cheese. Cornish Blue and Nantwich Blue are good bets, as, says Patrick is Gorgonzola Dolce PDO. “It is very creamy, so offers quite a good entry level option.”

“There can be some uncertainty around blue cheese,” Patrick continues. “Some people may have tried a very strong variety in the past and have been put off altogether. The best way to sell cheese is to give people the chance to try it. People may have misconceptions, but the reality of eating is quite different.”

Although blue cheese is a winner throughout the year, its association with Christmas cannot be avoided, and Patrick thinks the festivities can be another way to attract consumers to give it a go for the first time. It’s the perfect season for “showcasing what can pair well with blue cheese, from Panettone and fruited cakes and breads, to Port PDO and Madeira Wine PDO. Anything with a bit of sweetness is very good.

“Sparkling wines such as Champagne PDO, Cava PDO, Prosecco PDO and Cremant are great matches for blue cheese as they cut through the richness,” Patrick continues.

Clawson Farms extended its reach to newer blue cheese customers by launching its 1912 Artisan Stilton in 2022 – the name a nod to the year the business was founded by its farmer members. “Stilton’s not just for Christmas,” says Priya. “We want to put it front and centre of consumers’ everyday lives. For them to use it not just on cheeseboards, but in their favourite meals too.”

Clawson Farms has been making Stilton for generations, using only the best quality milk from its sustainably-run member farms, each based within 30 miles of the dairy. Its 1912 brand represents “our heritage in cheesemaking,” Priya says proudly. “What sets it apart is its excellence in taste. It has been triple graded by our master cheesemakers and is cut into a unique fan wedge, packaged perfectly with an easy-to-open film. We created it to inspire and drive a younger audience of affluent foodies to enjoy Stilton differently – that’s why there are a whole host of recipes and inspirations available on our websites and socials. Influencers are increasingly showing off our blue cheese too.”

It’s not just Clawson Farms that’s reaping the benefits of a new audience for blue cheese. Caroline Bell, managing director at Shepherds Purse, says young people are seeking out products that not only taste great, but add nutritional value to their lives. Artisan blue cheese fits the bill neatly, being made with natural ingredients, and tapping into the growing interest in fermented and gut-friendly food. Younger consumers “want to make good choices for both their health and the planet,” Caroline explains. “With its rich flavour and a strong nutrient profile, speciality blue cheese is a perfect way to quickly elevate everyday dishes while offering the benefits of a whole, minimally processed food that has been enjoyed by humans for thousands of years,” she continues.

Showing how easily blue cheese can add depth to cooking is a must for the modern cheesemaker and cheesemonger, Caroline adds. “For example, a few crumbles over a salad instantly adds creaminess and complexity without the need for extra dressings. Creamy blue cheese can be stirred into warm pasta, folded into a sandwich, or melted over vegetables and meat, transforming a basic dish into something more indulgent with minimal effort. It’s a perfect ingredient for those who want to eat well, but don’t have time to prepare complicated meals.”

Ease of use isn’t the only selling point, though. Caroline says values can make a big impact, especially if they align with consumers and their beliefs. Reaching a younger demographic requires “an agile, message-driven approach that engages them on their terms, using visual and rich social media content”.

Continually driving forward those messages that matter to them across all channels, from branding to marketing, is absolutely key.

“There’s a core of young people who care deeply about authenticity, wanting to know where their food comes from and who is behind it,” Caroline continues. “In contrast to ultra processed foods with global supply chains, speciality blue cheese, with its short supply chain and artisanal methods, offers an authentic food experience that’s rooted in tradition and community.”

Younger consumers “do appreciate this craftsmanship” Caroline thinks. “The artistry, care, passion and precision needed to produce a quality blue cheese comes through in the experience of the product. By showcasing these factors in engaging ways, the speciality cheese sector can inspire the loyalty of, and create new champions for, this wonderful cheese category.”

How to sell more blue cheese

There’s, of course, no magic wand in retail. But there are lots of initiatives retailers can take to boost sales. “I think it’s always important to talk to people about how blue cheese can be used in recipes,” says Patrick, echoing the thoughts of Priya and Caroline. “It can be used in lots of different dishes to avoid waste.”

Tell shoppers how they can use blue cheese as a seasoning, Patrick adds, tapping into its salty, peppery nature. Or explain how they can “mix it with butter to create a creamy blue cheese sauce that works wonderfully with steak”.

Sampling is a must, Priya says. “Customers love to try before they buy, and if they enjoy delicious-tasting cheese, together with learning about its journey to the shop, they’re more likely to buy it.

“Bring in some pairing ideas too. Or prepare some mini canapes using blue cheese to hand out. Those are both effective, as is handing out recipe cards to encourage shoppers to use blue cheese differently.”

What to eat and drink with blue cheese

Jessica Summer, founder of Mouse & Grape, selects her favourite varieties of blue cheese alongside blue cheese pairings

The real beauty of blue cheese is its variety. You can go from mild options like a semi-hard French Fourme d’Ambert or Bavarian Cambozola, to stronger blue cheeses like semi-soft and crumbly English Stilton, Roquefort, or the intensely spicy Spanish Cabrales, all of which can be crumbled into soups, added to salads, or paired with honeycomb or jamón.

For me, Gorgonzola Dolce PDO is a standout blue cheese because it’s as equally fruity and sweet as it is creamy, salty, tangy, and mouldy. It’s wonderfully versatile – perfect with cured meats, fresh, dried or pickled fruit or vegetables, and even alongside seafood. I’ve had Gorgonzola Dolce in butternut squash pasta, on sandwiches, as ice cream in a cone, and even paired with dark chocolate, infused with truffles and drizzled with honey. The possibilities are endless, and that’s just one blue cheese variety!

When it comes to wine, the range of blue cheese’s strengths, textures, and milk varieties opens up so many pairing opportunities. I often recommend contrasting flavours like a salty Gorgonzola Piccante with a sweet sparkling Moscato. Alternatively, go for complementary flavours, such as a bold Monastrell with an equally bold Picón apéritif. And don’t forget about rosé, especially those wines with longer skin contact or pronounced red fruit flavours. They can pair beautifully with creamy blue cheeses, making the flavours sing. A sparkling rosé Champagne with a salty blue cheese, for example, can be a magical combination. 

Pairing blue cheese is a delicate art, but when it works, it creates an exquisite flavour explosion.

How to use up leftover blue cheese

If you have a cafe or restaurant offering on site, or operate a kitchen, whipping up your own deli goods, blue cheese offcuts (from facing up or products close to end of date) can be transformed in myriad ways…adding value, reducing waste, and ringing additional revenue through the till.

Why not try:

1. Making potted Stilton. A delicious upsell to produce just before Christmas. Blend half Stilton to unsalted butter, adding a couple of spoonfuls of booze (think Port, brandy or whisky) per 200g of cheese. Dried cranberries or snippets of rosemary are nice finishing touches. Sell in individual ramekins or scoop from a large pot.

2. Baking batches of blue cheese biscuits. Drier, crumbly edges of cheese might not have the texture customers desire, but they still taste superb tumbled into a shortbread recipe and cut into festive shapes ready for gifting.

3. Bring a festive feel to your onsite eatery by adding the faced off pieces of Stilton to mac and cheese, or even beef stews and casseroles to bolster their flavour.

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