Cheese News: The latest updates from Britain’s cheese and dairy scene

Somerset Cheddar named People’s Choice winner

Keen’s Extra Mature Cheddar has been voted ‘People’s Choice’ during the online finale of a ‘cheese battle’ organised by The Real Cheese Project.

Following the success of 2023’s Great British & Irish Cheddar Challenge, this year was the Heritage Edition of the tasting event, with the final streamed live from Mrs Kirkham’s Cheese in Lancashire, compered by The Real Cheese Project co-founder James Grant of No2 Pound Street, and cheese lover and comedian Marcus Brigstocke.

Keen’s Extra Mature Cheddar was tasted by online viewers alongside Blue Stilton from Cropwell Bishop Creamery, Mrs Bourne’s Cheshire Cheese, and Thelma’s Original Caerffili from Caws Cenarth, with the heritage of each cheese explained by the maker, and detailed tasting notes and observations provided on the night by guests including Jane Quicke from Quicke’s and Lucy Cufflin from Chiswick Cheese Market.

Two rounds of public voting at Chiswick Cheese Market preceded the event, which began with 40 entrants, across nine categories, whittled down by tasters to the four finalists.

This latest accolade for the Keen family reflects the enduring popularity of traditional artisan Cheddar. The Keens have been producing cheese at Moorhayes Farm in Somerset since 1899, continuing to use raw milk from their 250-strong herd of Friesian cows, taking their Extra Mature Cheddar to 18 months for a moist texture and full-bodied flavour with onion notes and a defined tang.

Exciting induction for cheesemonger

Two-time winner of Affineur of the Year, Perry Wakeman, has recently joined the cheese Hall of Fame, having been welcomed into the prestigious Guilde Internationale des Fromagers.

It’s a significant milestone for the chief of cheese at Rennet & Rind, who is a staunch supporter the British artisan food scene, known within the industry for championing cheesemakers, while pushing the boundaries of what can be achieved in nurturing, maturing and selling cheese.

Perry joins fellow Brits Charlie Turnball and Jenny Linford in the Guilde – a global community of cheese masters and experts, dedicated to upholding the traditions and heritage of speciality cheese.

It’s considered an exclusive ‘club’, open only to those who have made significant contributions to the industry – a testament to Perry’s work, palate and skill. The honour cements Perry’s position as one of the UK’s leading cheese experts as he continues on his mission to share incredible cheeses with food lovers.

Young Cheesemonger of the Year finalists revealed

The Academy of Cheese has revealed its shortlist for Young Cheesemonger of the Year 2024.
Australian entrants Mia Crouch of Supercheese in Victoria, and Lily Jenkins of Hill Street in Tasmania will join British finalists Daniel Iliev (Paxton & Whitfield), Orla Jackson (Neal’s Yard Dairy), Dominic Jones (Rennet & Rind), and Jack Welch (The Pangbourne Cheese Shop) in Viseu, Portugal on Friday, 15th November, when the overall winner will be announced at the World Cheese Awards.

They will go head-to-head across five rounds including Perfect Pairing, a quick-fire Q&A testing their general cheese knowledge, and a fast-paced cut and wrap challenge at the event, sponsored by Peter’s Yard and the Guild of Fine Food.

In addition to taking the title, the winner will receive a trophy, a BOSKA professional cheesemonger tool set, a feature in Fine Food Digest, and secure a place on the Academy of Cheese Level Two Member Certification course. They will also be invited to judge at the World Cheese Awards in 2025.

Established to promote cheese knowledge and provide career development within the industry, the Academy of Cheese aims to build greater respect for the industry, with Young Cheesemonger of the Year showcasing the skill, knowledge and talent of its members.

Cheese dreams realised for duo

Two cheese lovers and foodies have finally achieved their dreams of opening their own shops, dedicated to showcasing British produce.

At the end of summer Louise Bagnall opened Cheese! Louise in Alton, while Victoria Dunthorne has just opened Victoria’s Cheese in Ely.

Cheese! Louise is an expansion of Louise’s existing refill business, Fill Up, following the expansion of the space, taking on additional footage last November.

Louise spent nearly a year researching and learning before opening the cheese counter, spending time training with expert Emma Young and discovering the fundamentals of cheesemongery at Mons Formation. “I needed to learn more than loving cheese and eating it,” she said. “As soon as I did that, it felt like the right move.”

In line with the Fill Up ethos, Louise has dedicated her selection to British-made cheeses, focusing on small makers, and helping to educate customers about the joys of artisan food. Already the business has created a buzz on the high street. “It’s the first speciality cheesemonger the town has ever had, as far as I know,” Louise said. “The food scene is growing here, and all the businesses share a similar ethos and want to help each other. Our opening day was absolutely flat out. People seemed really happy to have something like this on the doorstep!”

Her favourite cheeses of the moment are Stichelton, Teifi Mature by Caws Teifi, and, more recently, Mrs Bourne’s Cheshire. “It’s just one of those delicate, subtle cheeses. It’s creamy and buttery, and you can really taste the milk,” she said.

Over in Ely, Victoria has only just welcomed customers into Victoria’s Cheeses – her own shop, at last, following years of helping other retailers set up and stock their counters alongside operating an online cheese business.

“When this shop became available, it was too good an opportunity to miss,” she said of the building, formerly a chocolate shop.

“It was the ancient bone crypt for Ely Cathedral and it looks very ecclesiastical. I’ve got two small tables at the front for people who want to sit with a cheeseboard and wine, a church pew, and chapel chairs – I’m trying to create that feel with a touch of 70s caravan thrown in! I love the beautiful stone archway and crypted ceiling and archway. It’s a dream,” Victoria added.

The shop will sell largely British, but also some continental, cheeses, alongside a small selection of accompaniments, from the familiar (chutney) to the quirky (dark chocolate), bread from a local micro bakery, plus English wines, with Victoria having gained exclusivity with a vineyard in nearby Norfolk.

“The cheese will also mostly be smaller producers. The kind of things you won’t find in the supermarket. An example is Becky Enefer who makes sheep’s milk cheeses. She’s got a hard variety similar to a young Pecorino, and a soft cheese in the style of a Brie. It’s just delicious. Also, I went to Cumbria on holiday this year and got really excited about bringing the cheeses I found there to the shop, because often they don’t make it down here. Torpenhow is one of those. What a lovely farm and family. Their Darling Howe Brie is sensational!”

There’s a huge appetite for specialist cheese retailers right now, Victoria adds, saying a recent market she attended to drum up business for the shop saw her selling out of everything within hours. “There’s a brilliant food scene here, and it’s a great spot at the moment for anyone interesting in artisan food and drink. I’m so excited to be a part of it all.”

White Lake Cheese releases new smoked cheese

Cheesemaker White Lake Cheese has announced the release of its latest cheese. Smo’King of the Castle is a gently oat smoked version of their award-winning King of the Castle cheese – a semi hard goats’ Caerphilly-style cheese which is based on an old family recipe and is made using unpasteurised milk sourced from Bagborough Farm, near Shepton Mallet, Somerset, on which White Lake Cheese is based. 

White Lake Cheese has experimented with creating a smoked cheese for a long period of time, and has found that King of the Castle is the perfect partner for a gentle, moreish smoked flavour. 
Smo’King of the Castle has a moreish nutty flavour and a sumptuous caramel colour that develops during the smoking process.