A guide to cheese from France

French cheeses are among the most recognisable in the world. Even shoppers who have never had the pleasure of stepping into a dedicated cheesemonger know their Bries from their Roqueforts. “There are so many amazing French cheeses that we struggle to limit the number that we stock in the shop,” says Jen Grimstone-Jones of Cheese Etc, The Pangbourne Cheese Shop.

But across the country, there are hundreds of cheesemakers creating regional specialities that are not as well-known in Britain. Here, Speciality Food delves into essential French cheeses to know, from the popular imports to the lesser-known gems.

What are the common French cheeses?

Step into any supermarket, let alone a quality cheese shop, and you’re likely to find variations of the most traditional French cheeses, like Comté, Roquefort and Brie de Meaux. You may even come across other French varieties, like Epoisses, Reblochon and Morbier. 

According to Jen, stocking the great French classics is an essential way for cheesemongers to cater to customer demand. Comté, Roquefort and Brie de Meaux, she says, “tend to be the ones that everyone has heard of, and we get asked for them the most often.

“For me, these three cheeses would make my French cheeseboard every day of the week, but then I would top it up with three lesser-known varieties – even though in France a cheeseboard would always have an odd number of cheeses!”

Even if your shop’s focus is on British cheese, as is the case for Edward Hancock of The Cheesegeek, you can’t ignore the selling potential of quality French cheeses. “We generally focus on British cheese at Cheesegeek, but we always stock a fantastic 18–20-month summer milk Comté, as it is something customers always look for.”

What are the best French cheeses?

“The world of French cheese is diverse with a longstanding heritage, and it would be impossible to propose a definitive list for British cheesemongers and artisan retailers,” says Marie-Laure Martin, international communications director of CNIEL (Centre National Interprofessionnel de l’Economie Laitière), which brings together members of France’s dairy sector.

However, for retailers looking to stock the unexpected, the recommendations below include classic favourites and lesser-known cheeses divided by region that give a representation of terroir, textures and flavours from around the country, from French blue cheese to French goats’ cheese – and everything in between.

Region: Franche-Comté, eastern France

Marie-Laure describes Comté PDO is a “moreish cheese, appreciated for its young buttery, soft flavours and spicier nutty notes as it matures”. The Pangbourne Cheese Shop stocks two ages of Comté, a 10-12-month and a 30–36-month variety. “Both have that wonderful nuttiness that only comes with Alpine cheeses, but the older one has it in a much more intense quantity,” Jen says.

Comté’s production methods are still based on the original co-operative approach and artisan traditions that it was founded on over 1,000 years ago, Marie-Laure explains, and it can only be made using the milk of Montbéliarde and French Simmental cattle. The cheese pairs well with cured meats and almonds, fruit and bread. “Locals would likely pair with one of their own Vin Jaune, but Comté also works well with a white Burgundy or Viognier,” she adds.

Another of Jen’s must-stocks from this region is Morbier PDO, a cheese that many people would recognise due to the layer of ash that runs through its core. Jen explains the history of this unique cheese: “Traditionally the evening milk would have been made into curds which were left in the vat to rest overnight. These were covered with a layer of ash to protect them until the morning curd was added on top. The cheese is then rubbed with a brine solution to give it its orangey/pink rind and distinctive aroma. 

“The resulting cheese is actually quite mild, but it looks amazing on a cheeseboard and ticks the washed-rind requirement of a mixed cheeseboard,” Jen says.

Region: Rhône-Alpes, southeastern France

Made in an area that covers a large part of Haute Savoie and the Val d Arly in Savoie, near Switzerland, Reblochon de Savoie PDO is a soft washed-rind cheese that has a “a distinct barnyard aroma” alongside a “delicate, velvety taste, enhanced by exquisite hazelnut notes,” according to Marie-Laure. 

“This well-rounded creamy cheese is exclusively made with locally produced whole raw cow’s milk,” she continues. “Reblochon’s mild, fragrant taste pairs well with fruit, vegetables and it is often used in a tartiflette. Serve with a fruity Pinot Noir or a glass of Roussette de Savoie.”

Tomme de Savoie PDO is also produced in the Savoie region, and it is, Marie-Laure says, the “oldest and most loved” of the Tomme cheeses, a term that is used to describe a small, round cheese made in the French Alps. “The cheese has an earthy aroma with subtle vegetal and dried fruit flavours and a semi-soft melt-in-the-mouth texture,” she says, adding that it can also have a tang depending on the seasons of the Alpine grazing. When choosing pairing options, Marie-Laure warns that this cheese should not be overpowered. “I’d recommend pairing it with a dry white such as a Pinot Grigio or Viognier and lighter reds, such as a Gamay or Pinot Noir.”

For a fruity-flavoured cheese from the region, Maire-Laure recommends Abondance PDO, which is ivory to pale yellow in colour, with a soft and tender texture and flavours of pineapple, apricot, citrus and hazelnut. “When it comes to pairings, the cheese is often served at the table with fresh apples and cornichons, but it also goes well with mushrooms and pumpkins, so fairs well in a range of cooked dishes,” she says. And as with many cheeses, it is well matched with wines from its region, such as a white Chautagne or a red Chignin.

Region: Auvergne, central France

“As a region, the Auvergne is probably my favourite region for French cheeses,” Cheesegeek’s Edward says. “There is so much variety in style, but the quality of the milk and the taste of the landscape and terroir always comes through and is so distinctive,” he says. His personal favourite is Salers, a semi-hard French cheese with a nutty flavour. “It is an incredible expression of terroir, and the cows it comes from,” he says. “It’s full of character, complexity and tradition as well as being a genuinely seasonal cheese. Every box ticked for me.”

Another must-stock cheese from the Auvergne region is Fourme d’Ambert PDO, which dates back to at least the 8th century, but is believed to have been made in the Arvernes before the Roman conquest, which began in the second and first centuries BC.

“It has a beautifully creamy texture that melts in the mouth and gives off a soft, subtle scent of undergrowth,” Marie-Laure says. “Flavour-wise it is slightly salty and whilst it has a distinctive musty blue cheese aroma and taste, this is well-rounded and not at all overpowering.” Break through the saltiness of the cheese by pairing it with an indulgent flavour, like truffle honey and a dessert wine such as a Sauternes or Monbazillac.

Roquefort, also produced in the Auvergne region, has a storied past that should ensure its place in cheesemongers’ shops. It was the first cheese in France, and indeed the world, to be protected under the original AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) certification, back in 1925, Jen explains. “This meant that the cheese had to be made using raw milk from Lacaune sheep, and it had to be matured in the caves of Mont Combalou in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon,” she says. 

So famous is Roquefort that is also gives its name to the strain of fungus that is used to add the internal moulds to most blue cheeses, Penicillium roqueforti. Pair Roquefort with thinly sliced pear in place of a chutney alongside some almonds and walnuts, with a sneaky glass of Sauternes to round off the evening, Jen says.

Region: Normandy and Brittany, northern France

Made in a region just over the English Channel, for those seeking a creamy and indulgent cheese that’s perfect for impressing guests, Marie-Laure says it is hard to beat Brillat Savarin PDO, a “triple cream soft cheese which melts soon after it is removed from its packaging”. 

“It can be enjoyed fresh and in maturity with the flavour and structural changes you’d expect from a fine wine,” she continues. Pair it with red fruits and honey and a delicious sparkling wine from Burgundy, Crémant de Bourgogne.

Camembert is another of France’s best-known cheeses. Camembert de Normandie, which has been registered as a PDO since 1983, is a complex cheese with fruity aromas and a rich, earthy flavour that pairs well with apples and can even be elevated with a little honey, Marie-Laure says. “You can accompany it with a glass of Normandy cider or Calvados.”

Region: Nord-Pas-de-Calais & Picardy, northern France

Mimolette PDO is one of Jen’s all-time favourite French cheeses, and she describes its flavour as “wonderfully sweet” and “fudgy”. While it can be eaten after six weeks of maturation, she and Marie-Laure both recommend an 18-month aged version, which has sweeter, nutty notes. “This cheese is known as ‘La Boule de Lille,’ and it looks like a curling stone! It has a pitted rind, making it look a bit like the moon,” Jen says.

The pitted appearance has a unique story. “[It] comes from the introduction of cheese mites, which are allowed to burrow into its rind as it matures. The cheeses are continually brushed to prevent the mites from becoming problematic, and by the time the cheese is in our counter there are no mites anywhere to be seen,” Jen says.

“Aged Mimolette is incredibly hard, but once you have cut into it the paste is a deep, bright orange,” she describes. This comes from annatto, the same colouring used in Red Leicester and Double Gloucester, which is derived from the seeds of the South American achiote tree. 

Mimolette pairs well with medium-bodied red wines and a good glass of craft Pilsner, according to Marie-Laure.

Region: Île de France, north-central France

Brie de Meaux PDO dates back to 774, “making it one of the oldest, continually made cheeses,” Jen says. It’s an extremely well-recognised cheese, known for its white, soft rind and creamy, delicate paste. Brie de Meaux “has a straw-coloured, smooth and gooey centre, sweet milky taste, and flavours of mushrooms, butter and almonds,” Marie-Laure says. She recommends pairing it with grapes and dried fruits.

Region: Burgundy, east-central France

Another washed-rind cheese to stock is Époisses PDO, “considered one of the stinkiest cheeses in the world, thanks to its sticky orange rind, produced by regular washing in the local Marc de Bourgogne brandy mixed with brine,” Marie-Laure says. 

“It is worth stating that those who persevere with the strong aroma will be rewarded with its rich and complex taste,” she adds. The cheese has a strong flavour profile and an “almost melting quality”. 

“I would recommend serving with a cellar-aged White Burgundy, a Gewurtztraminer or a Côtes Catalanes,” Marie-Laure says.

Region: Pays de la Loire, western France

There are many great French goats’ cheeses for Britain’s cheesemongers to choose from, but Jen’s choice would be a Sainte Maure de Touraine PDO. “Made in the province of Touraine, this cheese famously has a straw placed through it to help prevent the fragile cheese from being damaged. This straw is etched with the cheesemaker’s identification number, which in itself is an amazing piece of French ingenuity as it guarantees the authenticity of each cheese,” Jen says. 

“I love this cheese when it is nearing its best before date and is intensely goaty, almost peppery on the tongue.”