A guide to buying Scottish cheese

With new EU import laws coming into force this month, could this be Scottish cheese’s time to shine?

The answer from the industry is a resounding ‘yes’. “Over the last six months there has been an increased level of interest for Scottish cheese,” says Morgane Lambert, whose work with the Scottish Dairy Growth Board has seen the creation of a ‘cheese map’ of the country on behalf of the Fine Cheese Makers of Scotland.

Morgane says this interest has largely sparked in the English market. “Buyers and consumers are interested to know more about new products, and new cheeses and, as Scottish cheese isn’t so known in England, it fits the bill nicely. You see consumers’ faces light up when they try it. Often their first reaction is, ‘I didn’t know there were such good cheeses in Scotland’.”

Reviving the purpose of the long-ago created Fine Cheese Makers of Scotland group has done much to help generate interest in what the country’s makers have to offer, Morgane adds. “The Scottish Dairy Growth Board wanted it to be a more formal group, and a project for the makers to gather themselves and put more energy into the cheese community. We’ve been attending shows over the past two years, and presenting cheeses with the producers together really makes an impact. They’re keen to help one another grow. That’s been the most exciting thing – seeing producers who haven’t necessarily been speaking to each other, now acting as a group and advocating for each other.”

The main barrier to sales has, of course, been distance, with Morgane saying the industry needed logistical change and heightened awareness to deliver the best of Scottish dairy beyond its borders.

Happily, “that barrier is being lifted. Routes for buyers and distributors are opening up.”

As that happens, education must increase throughout speciality food and cheese retail, she adds, saying both buyers and consumers need to understand there’s more to the country than block Cheddar. “We have cows, ewes, goats and buffalo. There’s organic, vegetarian, raw and pasteurised cheese being made across the whole cheeseboard – blue, hard, soft, washed-rind, farmhouse Cheddar, mozzarella, soft curd. It’s a very rich offering we have here.

“Scotland is well known for Crowdie and Cheddar,” says Heather Gillies of I J Mellis Cheesemongers, “but in the last several years we’ve witnessed Scottish cheesemakers delve into more varieties of cheese.” Heather says she’s proud to have seen the move towards washed-rind, lactic and even Tomme-style cheeses. “The farmhouse cheese industry in Scotland has also made great strides in making traditional cheese while working in the challenging climate. It’s a testament to the ability of the cheesemakers to work with the land to produce something exceptional and truly Scottish.”

“The producers are very well spread out, and each one of them, through their products, can really reflect the terroir of their area,” adds Morgane.

An interesting experiment, she encourages, is to try St Andrews and Isle of Mull Traditional Farmhouse Cheese side by side. “They are on the same longitude on a map, both use raw milk, but one is from the west coast and one is from the east coast. They have a really different feel.”

Why should retailers consider stocking Scottish cheese?

It’s a fantastic way to bring something new to the counter, says Morgane, adding that producers can meet the demand of both small, artisan food shops, and the larger food halls, such as Harrods and Selfridges.

Stocking Scottish cheese is “a great way to offer a premium product, without having to incur the food miles of importing from Spain, Italy, or even France.”

She hopes buyers will realise “instead of having to go through the maze, and expense, and risk of importing from the EU, they can look at what the rest of Britain has to offer. The high quality of the milk in Scotland does makes a difference to the cheese. For me, it’s a no-brainer for retailers.”

Heather says cheeses from England, France and co practically sell themselves, which is a hurdle Scotland’s makers will have to overcome. “Scottish cheese is almost like a well-kept secret.” Customers outside of Scotland may, Heather says, pick something Scottish to coincide with celebrations such as Burns Night, but they’re missing out the rest of the year around.

The benefit of choosing Scottish for retailers is the exceptional stories behind each product (as well as the flavour, of course). “We’ve found that great storytelling and a small taste can sell any quality cheese,” says Heather. “Scottish cheesemakers have great stories to tell about working with the land, and for customers who appreciate a product with traceability and sustainability in mind, Scottish farmhouse cheese is an easy sell.”

“Scottish cheeses are definitely coming up and moving in the right direction,” says The Cheese Lady’s Svetlana Kukharchuk, “but I think we can still do, probably, with more variety when it comes to different styles. I hope some cheesemakers will start developing those.”

Which cheeses, in particular, would Svetlana like to see more of from Scotland? 

“The softer variety, definitely. And I would love to see more cheesemakers committing to raw milk cheese and being really dedicated to it, like Errington Cheese. They are so fantastic, and an inspiration for everybody. It’s a joy, as a cheesemonger, to be able to sell their cheeses. They have such a strong philosophy and belief in raw milk.”

A taste of Scottish cheese

Morgane finds it difficult to pick her favourite cheese from the country, but manages to pin it down to four, starting with St Andrews Farmhouse Cheddar, made on the Stewart family farm with milk from their own cows. “It’s very artisanal,” she says. “Jane is dedicated to producing the very best cheese she can make. That has been recognised with many awards at the Royal Highland Show, International Cheese & Dairy Awards, and World Cheese Awards. They’re exporting to Australia and the USA. It’s great to see this high-quality premium product getting to travel all over the world.”

Morgane’s second pick is Rainton Tomme from The Ethical Dairy. “It’s a very young company, making a range of artisan raw milk cheeses. What sets them apart is their approach to making cheese, with a very strong commitment to increasing biodiversity on their fields, and their farm using green energy.” The farm is also focussed on high animal welfare, Morgane explains. “They are one of very few producers in the UK that implements the cow with calf method. The yield of milk is lower than you’d expect, and they produce less cheese in terms of volume, but it is outstanding.”

Next, she points to Minger, made by Rory at Highland Fine Cheeses. “He is absolutely passionate and obsessive about Scottish cheese. This one is soft with a washed rind that is very very creamy. The longer you let it mature, the more pungent it will get. It’s an interesting change from the traditional hard cheeses you expect from Scotland, and sales have grown quite a bit over the last year.”

Finally, Morgane says more cheesemongers in the UK should get to know Isle of Kintyre’s wax truckled cheeses (in flavours such as Apple Smoked, Truffler and Lazy Ploughman). They are, she says, not well known in England, but have a roaring export trade the world over. “What sets them apart is David really takes time on the recipes, and they don’t use any liquid flavours or powders. For example, if they are using caramelised onion, they buy onions and caramelise them on site before putting them into the cheese – you get that fresh taste and crunch as you eat. I think they really deserve to be looked at a lot more closely.”

Wendy Barrie of the Scottish Food Guide, says Dunlop Dairy in Ayrshire still makes “the best Crowdie”, and adores the organic sheep’s milk products from Galloway Farmhouse Cheese, calling them “a smashing small producer”. 

“And The Ethical Dairy do a range of blue cheeses that are absolutely delicious. I collaborate with about 15 or 16 producers regularly and encourage chefs to use Scottish cheese because we have such a lovely range with something for everybody, and I think us Scots are doing a grand job. We’re a couple of food nerds in our house (I’m married to a farmer) and we have a map of the soils of Europe at home. The soils in Scotland are just like soil in Sweden – nothing like the soil in England. It’s extraordinary, and means there really is a complete difference here, bringing a different range of flavours.”

For Svetlana, trying to pinpoint the Scottish cheese she likes best is like “picking between babies”, so she takes a diplomatic approach, selecting a soft, a firm and a blue she thinks represent the country perfectly on a cheeseboard. Like Morgane, she thinks Minger is excellent. She would pair it with the sheep’s milk Cheddar-style cheese, Corra Linn, from Errington Cheese which is, “really nutty, intense and crunchy”. 

“And I’d finish with Biggar Blue from Errington. It’s medium strength, a bit crumbly, a bit nutty and very lovely. It goes very well with our newest product, which is a honey wine, Melina, made for us in Perthshire. And I like to use Galloway Lodge chutneys too.”

Scotland’s only PGI protected cheese is Traditional Ayrshire Dunlop, made by Ann Dorward. Another of Ann’s cheeses, a goat’s milk version called Bonnet, is one of the biggest sellers for I J Mellis Cheesemongers, says Heather. “We mature both cheeses an additional three to five months in our maturing rooms to really develop the unique flavours.”

She adds that she thinks Hebridean Blue, made by the Reade family just outside of Tobermory on the Isle of Mull, is one of Scotland’s best blues. “The flavour of this cheese tends to change seasonally. It tastes great in all seasons, but makes a good pairing for a dram on Burns Night.”

Heather also cites the team at The Buffalo Farm in Fife as a cheesemaker of note. “They’re making Scotland’s only buffalo Mozzarella and have really opened doors for Scottish produce. It’s one of our most popular cheeses among our trade customers.”