Ireland: A Growing Market For Speciality Food?

Speciality Bites with

Paul Hargreaves

Chief executive of Cotswold Fayre

• Becoming a B Corp
• Top trend predictions for Christmas 2021
• Self-sacrifice: The importance of building a leadership legacy centred on others
• Undercover Boss
• Can/should bosses really be close friends with their staff?

I had the pleasure of visiting Ireland last week and was very interested in comparisons with the UK market.

First of all, I was shocked at the depth of the recession over there. After many boom years, largely due to European investment, known as the Celtic Tiger, Ireland has got a recession far deeper than ours.

House prices have dropped by 40%. Retail food prices in the multiples have dropped by 10%. And, after full employment for years Ireland has unemployment. Many of the “new Irish” have fled back to Eastern Europe.

Hotel prices compared to only 18 months ago have almost halved. Last time I stayed it was difficult to get a hotel room for under 120 euros a night, this time I paid 59 euros for a similar hotel and 2p on the return flight!

Every time I turned on the car radio all the talk was of recession and swine flu. Not what you would call entertainment.

However, despite all that, the independent food shops seemed to be thriving. Sure they have had to adapt some of their ranges and offerings, but only one of the retailers (and that was a small supermarket chain) seemed very concerned about the current economy.

In fact in Dublin, per capita, there were more independent food halls than cities in the UK.

Donnybrook Fair, Fallon & Byrne and Fresh (who between them, I think, have eight outlets) were full of customers spending money. In fact Fallon & Byrne is worth singling out for a special mention.

With three floors it has a wine bar in the cellar, a thriving food hall on the ground and a splendid restaurant with great wine on the first floor. You won’t be surprised to learn that I spent about four hours there – I’ll leave you to guess on which floor!

Bearing in mind my comments a few weeks ago about food halls in London, you might find it surprising that there is room for so many quality outlets in Dublin. Or perhaps not.

Dublin is still a relatively wealthy city with earnings 15-20% higher than the UK. But more importantly perhaps is the culture of supporting independent retailers on that side of the Irish Sea.

While some sense of community has broken down over the last few years, it is still noticeably higher than in the UK.

It’s obvious to anyone who has been over there and outside Dublin. When it comes to shopping, consumers are more used to walking to their local butcher, greengrocer or corner shop than UK citizens. The Irish, I believe, are less likely to jump in the car and drive to their nearest out-of-town hypermarket than those in the UK.

It might be a grand idea to believe independent food shops can change a culture, but small things can make a difference.

If you have the space, invite mums and toddler groups to use your café one morning a week, have a pensioners discount day or open a wine bar alongside your retail outlet. They can all create a sense of community.

Supermarkets can never do this, despite the marketing!