Could Bovaer reaction be a ‘big win’ for small, independent dairies?

The people have spoken. Just days after it announced a landmark trial with supermarkets Morrisons, Tesco and Aldi, Danish-Swedish-owned dairy giant Arla has been forced to defend ruminant food additive, Bovaer, in light of mass consumer boycotts of Arla-related products.

The public, concerned about links to big industry, animal welfare, and the legacy effect on humans of Bovaer, say they’re binning their usual milk, butter and cheese brands (including Cravendale and Lurpak) in favour of supporting smaller producers.

Though Bovaer is being used in just 30 dairy farms out of nearly 9,000 involved with Arla, there are also worries from fellow farmers about the milk produced being ‘mixed’ with non-trial milk. 

Multiple businesses have spent the weekend speaking out on social media, and communicating directly with their customers to assure them they’re not using Bovaer within their systems, from larger producers such as Wyke Farms, to more low-key operations including Hook & Son and Pedigree Milk. 

Prior to last week’s announcement, Bovaer (which is said to reduce methane emissions in cows by up to 29%) had already been given the green light in other parts of the world, from Canada, to Australia, as the dairy industry seeks to find new ways of reducing its impact on a global scale.

“We know that reducing methane is a big opportunity when it comes to improving our carbon footprint at farm level, and feed additives like Bovaer have huge potential in helping us tackle this issue, said Paul Dover, Arla Foods’ UK agricultural director. 

“We are extremely excited about this new collective way of working alongside our retail partners and the possibilities that feed additives, such as this one, present.”

Bovaer is produced by DSM Firmenich, with Arla stipulating it has no link to a similar business, Rumin-8, which counts Bill Gates as a significant investor.

Speaking to The Grocer, Arla added that the health of its animals and consumers is its “number one priority”.

“Bovaer has already been extensively and safely used across Europe, and at no point during the trial will there be any impact on the milk we produce as it does not pass from the cow into the milk,” a spokesperson said.

This has done little to assuage worried shoppers, whose confidence has been shaken in the last three decades by the BSE and horse meat scandals.

In addition to seeking out independent dairies for milk and cheese, there appears to be a growing interest from consumers in organic produce, with the Soil Association saying it’s fielded multiple enquiries in the last few days about whether the additive is permitted for use by its members.

All ingredients and components (the Soil Association released in a statement on X) must be approved for use and deemed safe and nutritionally useful for animals. It states the main component in Bovaer is not included in its list of approved products, and as a result is not permitted for use in organic farming.

“Arla buys milk from many different farms and they supply both organic and non-organic milk,” the Soil Association added. “Any organic milk they supply must meet organic regulation requirements and the production has to be completely separate from any non-organic milk. This must be demonstrated and independently identified every year.”

Rebecca Mayhew of Old Hall Farm, a calf with cow dairy in South Norfolk, said she’s had more than 200 queries since details of the Arla trial emerged. “People want to know what it is, if we’re using it, and why it’s needed.”

The conversation around methane is more complicated and nuanced than the public might understand, Rebecca added – especially when it comes to grass-fed cows. “It takes less energy to fuel the calories that go into our animals’ diets compared to most animal products you’ll find in the shops. How much energy is being used to produce methane is the biggest problem. All our cattle have a varied diet. They eat long grasses and receive tannins from those plants, which are naturally methane-reducing. Our cows don’t have soya or maize, which aren’t natural for them – and maize is terrible for the soil! We have a lot of dung beetles on the farm. They break down the manure, which helps with the cycle of methane.”

Rebecca hopes the recent news will make more people consider what they’re buying, and where they’re buying it from, encouraging the public and independent retailers to foster better relations with farmers. “I would not, as a deli or shop, be afraid to bang on that drum now and say, ‘our products don’t contain Bovaer’. I’ve contacted all my cheese suppliers to make sure they’re not in the programme. There’s power in knowledge. Check your supply chain!”

While it appears small dairy farms could have a quick win, as consumers grapple with the facts around Bovaer, making up their minds about its inclusion in the food chain, Rebecca does point out there’s a fear amongst dairy farmers that some may cut milk and cheese out of their diets completely. Keeping them informed is key.

Another fear from family-run dairies is that demand may outstrip supply, piling on the pressure.

This is something Tim Gurton at Collett’s Farm in Essex knows only too well. The dairy, which produces raw milk, has seen a sharp rise in sales over the last year because of an increased interest in gut-friendly food and drink.

Since the Bovaer news he says there have been many more calls and messages regarding its use, with website traffic seeing large spikes. “It’s certainly in people’s minds.”

“The only hiccup I see is that people are saying they don’t want to go to supermarkets, but they want the farm to be like a supermarket and to offer that level of service - for us to have stock as and when they want it. But no business can cope with a 10% sudden increase in demand. It’s very difficult. Too much milk is a waste product.”

Tim says shoppers have become reliant on what larger retailers have to offer and cannot expect small farmers to suddenly fill the void. “We had this four years ago with Covid. People said they would change their shopping habits for life. Three months later they were back to the supermarket, business as usual. You can’t run a business on a sudden surge of demand.”

That said, Tim is motivated and buoyed by the fact the public are asking questions and considering their purchases more carefully. “We don’t have a food system where everyone knows the answers. The only way to have those is by buying from a small producer who does.”