“Blues brothers”

What drives this desire is not immediately clear considering the challenges it poses; it may be the making challenge, it may be the perception that blue is the pinnacle of cheesemaking, or it may be the missing technique that they feel obliged to conquer.

There has been a rise in a whole array of different blues, each finding their own niche in the trade.

It’s clearly a tough, difficult and challenging product to be able to make consistently, and all this plus the ever-present technical challenge, especially on a site that makes different cheese types.

There are, of course, those who are totally dedicated to blue making, and when on the blue tour it begins with Blue Stilton – why not, as it is the choice of many here and abroad. Colston Bassett and Cropwell Bishop are usually accorded the recognition they deserve, and of the bigger makers Clawson has committed to the widest range of new products to advance its franchise, but just a few are aware of the quirky Websters Blue Stilton made in its cute 17th century home, all by hand, with virtually no mechanisation and the 12 week maturity that Margaret Callow demands, making it buttery, piquant and distinctly different.

Cornish Blue, a long time challenger from its West Country home, has still to be accorded its rightful place on so many shelves, although it now has a neat prepack portion.

Less well known in this galaxy of blues are the likes of Bledington made at Daylesford, where the cheesemaker has made an excellent 350g mini cheese with a deep yellow buttery paste and a not-too-overpowering blue combination.

John Bourne too, a long-established classic Cheshire maker, has felt compelled to include the almost forgotten Cheshire blue in his range. Made in small 500g rounds, it is a really enjoyable combination, albeit its output is quite small so get in quickly.

The previously-mentioned Cropwell Bishop Creamery has also developed Beauvale, a seriously creamy, almost squidgy, softer-textured blue, almost Gorgonzola in style – in contrast to the former style it is more famed for.

Lancashire too has a whole range of blue champions making their presence felt. For many years now Dewlay have invested heavily to bring their own blue cheese to market, and Garstang Blue is a serious contender. A few miles up the road, Butlers have also made strong inroads into the major retailers with Blacksticks Blue.

Yorkshire as a rapidly growing food county has several serious entrants, some with a longer pedigree such as Yorkshire Blue and Mrs Bell’s Blue from Shepherds Purse, while Wensleydale Creamery has created its own Wensleydale Blue.

Lost for some time but now back are Buxton Blue, Dovedale Blue and Hartington Blue Stilton.

Scotland brings a wide range of established names like Erringtons Lanark Blue, and out of the north Strathdon Blue from Highland Fine Cheese.

There are simply dozens more from the south, the west, from Wales and the south east all adding to a rich tapestry of types and styles – a massive dedication to making a complicated and challenging cheese type, and each taking a small part of a growing market sector, with a few emerging as runaway winners.

This band of blues brothers do create interest and rich variety, but few are making that vital breakthrough that can propel them to fame and fortune and secure for them a lasting place in the consumer’s affections.