Special Report: British cafe culture in 2024

The UK’s appetite for great coffee is heating up, and independents are primed to reap the rewards. Currently worth £4.6 billion – and rising – according to World Coffee Portal, Britain’s indie coffee scene is quenching the nation’s thirst for quality and connection.

Indies have an innate ability to swiftly adapt to suit the evolving wants of consumers; some consider the western world to be in – or on the cusp of – the Fourth Wave of coffee, whereby we’ve moved on from the First Wave of commercialising coffee, the Second Wave which saw coffee houses open, and the Third Wave within which quality and provenance became important for discerning coffee drinkers. The Fourth Wave is an exploration of the science and sustainability of coffee, and with independent cafes in poll position to explore and innovate, their future looks bright.

The task of curating a strong-selling range of coffees in 2024 is more complicated – and exciting – than it was a decade ago. With more players in the fine coffee market than ever before, many of which tap into the coffee lovers’ appetite for provenance, sustainability and adventurous flavours as well as tried-and-true favourites such as mellow and chocolatey Columbian, there’s a plethora of options to choose from.

Health claims

Just a few years ago, discussions around innovation in the coffee market would be focused around technology; the advent of domestic coffee machines, milk frothers and newfangled kit like the trendy Aeropress were transforming at-home coffee consumption and turning Joe Bloggs into a budding barista. These days, the hype lies in the potential health credentials of coffee.

“One of the main influences shaping the coffee industry is consumer health and wellbeing,” agrees Jack Foster, co-owner and operations director at Crosby Coffee. “I myself have gone through a transitional period recently where I am actively seeking out healthier choices in my day-to-day life, whether that be food and drink related or my conscious decision to go to the gym. The awareness of the growth of our own health and wellness has led to multiple businesses now retailing products such as coffee with additional benefits, like mushrooms or vitamins.”

Indeed, while many of us are aware about the antioxidant properties present in coffee, in 2024 there’s a movement towards upping the ante towards punchier health claims. Functionality is the name of the game, with brands such as Ancient & Brave bringing out collagen coffee, Cheerful Buddha releasing coffee with CBD, and London Nootropics selling a raft of options offering desirable attributes such as mental clarity, endurance and balance. Meanwhile, mushroom-based blends are garnering attention due to their claims of lowering inflammation and stress.

The rise of decaf

The move towards decaffeinated options is also gathering pace, linked to the growing acknowledgement that the infamous caffeine boost may do more harm than good – especially when it comes to sleep. “There is a heightened focus on avoiding coffee crashes and jitters, and a lot more research and awareness on the impact of optimal sleep on various facets of life, from weight loss to gut health, brain performance and beyond,” says Krishma Mehta, founder of Noffee. Guy Wilmot of Decadent Decaf says he’s seen a gradual uptick in sales over the years. “Decaf is finally coming of age and growing in popularity largely because of demographic and cultural trends, namely a larger segment of Gen X, over 50s, that want to live healthy lifestyles, and Gen Z and Millennials, who are thinking much more about what goes in their bodies, and leaning into wellness,” he says.

Responsible sourcing

“One significant trend is the growing popularity of speciality coffee that is sourced responsibly,” says Jack. The move towards considerate sourcing plays to the strengths of independents, who at their core choose to support producers and celebrate special products. “Consumers are increasingly seeking high-quality, ethically sourced beans with unique flavour profiles but with traceability back to their source. There are several UK-based coffee roasters that will indicate on their website the price they paid the farmer for a particular coffee to show the true cost of that product and validate the relationship from seed to cup.”

Price hikes

Meanwhile, the price of wholesale coffee has reached record highs. According to Gareth Redmond-King, head of international programme at the Energy and Climate Intelligence Unit (ECIU), the UK imported a billion pounds worth of coffee in 2023 – and the cost of a morning caffeine boost is set to rise because of extreme weather in countries like Vietnam and Brazil.

“97% of all coffee globally is grown in countries vulnerable to climate impacts. More than half the coffee beans we imported last year came from Brazil and Vietnam,” Gareth said. “And coffee, like many UK food imports, cannot simply be grown here instead. If we don’t speed the path to net-zero emissions by mid-century, and support farmers and food producers at home and abroad to adapt to a warming world, then prices will only continue to rise, as supplies are squeezed further.”

Italian coffee company Lavazza warned that coffee prices are set to continue rising until mid-2025. Vice chairman Guiseppe Lavazza said prices hit a record 15-year high because of supply chain disruption, geopolitical issues and poor harvests. In early July, the price of coffee reached more than £3,300 a tonne. The price rises have caused1kg bags of beans to soar by 15% in a year, but Guiseppe said the rises could reach 20% to 25% over the year as prices continue their upward trend.