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meat, fish, bread and fresh veg have found that customers are actually buying more. Before, largely because of the crowds, people generally just bought one or two items, but now they’re doing a proper shop because they have more space to browse and chat with producers. Traders love it because they have more time to really talk about their food and offer advice and recommendations to shoppers.” Darren has found that visitors are actually happy to queue if it means they can get around without the crowds. “It’s certainly something to consider for the future,” he adds. Leading with ethics While many farm shops are understandably keeping their “People now have a bit more time to listen, we have a bit of time to speak to them, and it’s nice to be able to showcase what we do.” Shoppers are still abiding by the market’s Come Shop Leave mantra, but the steadier pace means traders have the headspace to interact more during the course of the transaction, and their customers — starved of human contact — are keen to listen and engage. Charles has been able to talk about the types of nuts he stocks, about the concept of agroforestry, about the small-scale, sustainable producers his customers are helping to support. Darren agrees: “Obviously things have been difficult for some of our traders, especially stalls selling hot food, but those offering staples like @specialityfood Changes that would normally have taken weeks, months or even years have been implemented overnight,” states Darren. For example, Borough Market’s hugely popular Cookbook Club quickly moved over to Zoom, as did Borough Talks, where a panel of experts regularly discuss important food topics. “Going virtual has opened our events up to a whole new audience, so this is definitely something we’ll continue with in the future.” There have also been some positive changes on the market floor. “During the lockdown, Borough Market has felt like a very different place to the crowded, slightly chaotic melee you’re probably familiar with, filled with visitors from far and wide. Clear, orderly queues. People buying, not just browsing. Before, it was more of a spectacle, a sensory overload,” says Charles Tebbutt of nut stall Food and Forest, who admits to missing some of the old buzz. But the change of pace created by the necessity of social distancing has brought with it a major benefit. Borough Market’s traders don’t just sell food; they also, each in their own way, tell stories — about regional cultures, production methods, sustainability and ethics — and those stories have found a bit more space to breathe. “The intense, crazy atmosphere of Borough Market on a normal Saturday afternoon wasn’t always conducive to having those conversations,” Charles explains. T he Covid-crisis proved that – with the routine convenience of supermarkets taken away – shoppers will wholeheartedly embrace the reassurances of local produce, quality and personal connection that only independents can offer. Already well-versed in innovation and adaptability, farm shops, markets and delis were uniquely well placed to think on their feet when lockdown was implemented, stepping up instantly to serve their communities and capturing the loyalty of locals in the process. Research conducted by Finder in the height of lockdown found that 41% of Brits were shopping in their local greengrocers, butchers and corner shops more often than usual during lockdown. Of 2,000 shoppers polled, 36% said they would continue to use their neighbourhood stores more frequently in the future as restrictions were lifted. Unsurprisingly, the primary reason shoppers gave for visiting their local shops was to avoid the crowds in supermarkets and the queues outside them (54%). However, consumers also felt motivated to support local businesses during times of financial hardship, making this the second most popular reason (46%). Commenting on the findings, Georgia-Rose Johnson, shopping expert at finder.com said: “The fact that local, independent shops experienced a boom in both demand and support during the lockdown played a vital role in keeping local economies alive. Local shops reminded communities of the value and convenience they bring, and it seems this is reciprocated by high numbers of shoppers who say they want to continue to support local businesses. The acid test will be when life settles back to normal.” LESSONSAFTER LOCKDOWN Can innovative food independents hold onto some of their newly converted customers in a post-Covid world? Natasha Lovell-Smith of Great British Food meets the traders who have everything to play for 34 “We want to make it easier for people to shop with us” NIKKI STORRAR, MANAGER OF ARDROSS FARM SHOP IN FIFE “We hadn’t anticipated how labour-intensive doing home deliveries and an order-and-collect service would be. Sadly we don’t have an online shop and we just didn’t have enough time in the day to get one up and running. We have definitely missed out there as I think an online shop would have increased our basket spend. As popular as the order-and-collect and home delivery service is, unless it’s very efficient it doesn’t make money. We will need to see what demand there is for it afterwards, and if it’s significant, try to make it run more efficiently. Lockdown has taught us that we really need to improve our online presence and make it as easy as possible for people to shop with us. We now have all the processes in place so if this happens again (I really hope not!), we can be up and running within hours. This is a once-in-a-generation opportunity for independents to really engage with consumers. You have their attention – it’s now up to you to prove why you’re different to the supermarkets in an easy-to-understand way Serving communities Indeed, will this new-found goodwill in the community continue as shoppers have more options? Karen Dear, director of operations at the Craft Bakers Association (CBA), which represents approximately 500 bakery businesses in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, is hopeful. “The pandemic has seen many people rediscover the importance of community, and while craft bakeries and independent food retailers have always been a part of local communities, during lockdown we have heard about many new initiatives frommembers supporting their immediate area.” She continues: “Many of our bakeries have raised money for local charities or hospitals, or donated food to those in need, whilst others have introduced delivery services that have been especially welcomed by those self isolating. Our independents have learnt that they can not only survive in the face of change and uncertainty, but excel. I believe many will take this new confidence, flexibility and skill in problem-solving into all aspects of their business moving forwards,” she adds. Stories of success The UK food sector may be facing a time of unprecedented uncertainty, but with great change comes great opportunity. London’s Borough Market is an interesting case study in a food business coping – even thriving – under lockdown; a particularly remarkable feat considering howmuch Borough’s traders rely on the tourism trade. Managing director Darren Henaghan has been pleasantly surprised to see how quickly all aspects of the market have adapted: “‘Pivoting’ seems to be the word of 2020. SADDLEBACK FARM SHOP BOROUGH MARKET BOROUGH MARKET